Paradise for me is the place that has peeling waves

Girmantas | Surfing, Travel | April 21, 2011

When green minivan passes sign “Tijuana 1478 km”, me and Marius are already listening for the greatest hits of “The Beach Boys”. Season is over in La Ventana, wind was killed by the heat and it’s time for us to head up North. The minivan carries not only four boards and other sailing gear, but also a really optimist house inside. Including the stove, carpet and a bunk bed. Sounds luxurious? It is so! In the middle of the desert, every single comfort detail becomes priceless. So we’re driving North to search for the best Baja and USA west coast wave spots.

In the meantime, Xteam.lt published an interview a couple of weeks ago (you may find a VERY rough Google translation here). From everything I’ve written for them, they have distinguished one phrase “Paradise for me is the place where I can find peeling waves”. It sort of made me think, is it really like that? After a couple of days I’ve said to myself – YES, that’s correct! Exactly! Paradise for me is  the place where the waves are peeling. I don’t even remember how long everything I do eventually brings me to another wave. And there’s no difference either it’s in the Baltic sea or Spain, Africa or South America.

But how did it all start? This journey didn’t start two years ago, when I left Lithuania in the search of waves and wind. It didn’t start four years ago, when I’ve quit freestyle windsurfing and decided to concentrate on the waves. Not even twelve years ago, when I’ve started to windsurf regularly. I guess it began when I was two or three years old. I was already sitting on a windsurfing board. With a pack of cigarettes in my hand by the way just to look cool ofcourse. A few years later, I was already “surfing” Baltic sea coast.

These pictures looks like some serious old-school today. However, when I wrote short essay back in fourth grade about my summer and surfing in Lithuania, I already knew – this is going to be something I’m gonna do in my life. Surf the waves. Just like then, today many people say that there are no waves in Lithuania, some say that Lithuanians can’t surf, some say… let them talk. When you catch THAT wave, THAT surf, after first bottom or top turn – you do that for yourself only. Not for the others, but just for yourself you set the bar higher and higher. And you reach for those goals.

So basically, all of my life I am chasing waves. Like a small child you’d say. But maybe those who grow up too fast miss the most part of joy in their lives? When I was answering Xteam questions, I’ve mentioned that I want to surf more (lately I was windsurfing mostly). This was sort of promise to myself that I’ll forget my shoulder pain and go out to paddle. Thanks to John, me and Marius got great surfboards for the trip. No matter if it’s cold or warm, windy or not – as long as there’s surf – we’re going to be in the water! Behold America, two Lithuanians eager to surf are on their way!

Related Posts:
  1. lina

    Bus idomu paskaityt apie nuotykius su banglente :)

  2. Laisvis

    Jo,Amerikai jus tokie labai reikalingi. :P :) ))

  3. Juozas

    Labai ikvepiantis tekstas ! Supeeer ; )

Comment